After a few days in Tokyo, it was really nice to hop on board the “Limited Express Romance Car” and head to Hakone for some time in the country. On the way, our conductor made sure we got to the other side of the train for a glorious vies of Mr. Fuji. It was like a miracle seeing it on such a clear day!
While in Japan one thing I really wanted to do was check out an Onsen. Public baths are a huge part of the culture in Japan and I love a good soak. I had read about Hakone, the hot spring town, and I really wanted to check it out because it sounded amazing. We wanted to stay in a traditional Ryokan which means that you wear a yukata (summer kimono) and sleep on tatami mats on the floor. It’s pretty tough to find one with vegan options but I did it! Kansuiro Ryokan promised to be a completely traditional ryokan that also catered to any sort of dietary needs. In the ryokan, you have your own room where they bring you a feast course by course. We were overwhelmed by all the food. Then while we were hanging out in our outdoor onsen overlooking the mountains they take all the food away and change it into a bedroom. It was a very different experience. Our hostess barely spoke English but she helped us make sure everything was perfect. Until the morning, that is, when she insisted we have a gigantic breakfast right at 8am. They called us at 7:30 and started yelling “hurry! hurry!” because we weren’t out of bed yet. It kind of killed the relaxing atmosphere and after the giant spread the night before I couldn’t handle another full on breakfast.